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Brunette Hair Gone Orange? Here's How to Fix It Fast

BY SALLY MADISON
NATIONAL COLOR TRAINER


Orange, brassy tones are one of the most common problems after lightening or coloring hair. 

This is particularly a problem for brunettes - women whose hair is predominantly brown.

A lot of stylists go through a process of endlessly re‑bleaching or over‑toning with very light blonde colors which are too light for natural base.

And they end up getting a mediocre result.

But here's something else you can consider doing...

The Miracle Product Which Tones Down Orange & Brassy Tones - Works for All Brunettes.

When working with orange tones one dark bases, the product we recommend is ash-grey additive.

It is a product which contains a very strong concentration of ash.

Which is what you need to neutralize orange on dark bases.

It's a highly effective way of toning down orange tones on dark natural bases.

What Ash Grey Additive Does

Ash Grey Additive is essentially a concentrated ash pigment designed to be mixed into your regular ash or brown hair color.

It is not a stand‑alone color, but an intense booster that adds extra ash and blue to your existing formula so it can neutralize strong orange and brassy tones.

When used correctly, it cools down overly warm highlights or all‑over color, turning harsh orange into a softer, smokier brunette or dark blonde.

Because it is concentrated, the magic of Ash Grey Additive is in using small, controlled amounts to fine‑tune your formula rather than flooding the hair with too much ash.

How to Use Ash Grey Additive

You need to mix the additive together with a regular brown shade to tackle strong orange mid‑lengths and ends.

We would suggest mixing ash grey additive with one of these colors. They are all liquid ammonia-free colors and will mix with the ash-grey additive very easily.

Ugly Duckling Color Gel 6N

Ugly Duckling Color Gel 7N

Ugly Duckling Color Gel 8N

Here's how to do it:

Squeeze out about 1 inch (2–3 cm) of Ash Grey Additive into your bowl along with your chosen color shade.

This is usually enough because the pigment is very strong.

Start with less additive if you are unsure; you can always use more ash grey additive the next time.

Remember that using ash grey additive will make your hair darker.

So it is a good idea to mix it with a slightly lighter base color than your target color.

Mix your color and developer as normal.

A 20 Vol developer works well for most situations where you want to both slightly darken and neutralize orange brass.

We recommend that you use Premium 20 Vol developer with Bond Protect.

WATCH VIDEO: HOW BRUNETTES USE ASH GREY ADDITIVE TO KILL HAIR BRASSINESS 

Hair by Elona Taki

Step‑by‑Step Application Guide

Follow these steps, inspired by the technique shown in the ash grey additive demo and best practice for toning orange hair.

1. Assess the brassiness in the hair

If your client's hair is bright orange or copper and she is happy for you tone it down to a deeper, richer shade, Ash Grey Additive combined with your choice of brown color is the right decision for your client.

2. Prepare your formula

Choose an ash‑based or cool brown shade close to your desired end result. Any color from level 4 to level 7 will work.

Add about 1 inch of Ash Grey Additive to the color in your bowl and then add 20 Vol developer in a one to one color to developer mixing ratio.

We recommend you use our Premium 20 Vol developer with Bond Protect for added hair strength and protection.

3. Apply everywhere, saturating well.

Apply the mixture generously to the hair and of course especially on the orange and brassy parts, making sure every strand is fully saturated.

Comb through gently to ensure even coverage, especially where brass is most visible around the front and sides.

You can make a small amount of second mix and re-apply to the really brassy areas, rubbing in with fingers using gloves.

4. Process and check

Let the color develop for around 20 minutes, checking the tone every few minutes.

Once the orange has disappeared and the hair looks like a consistent, cool brunette or dark blonde, rinse thoroughly and shampoo gently.

5. Rinse, care, and style

Rinse until the water runs clear, then condition or use a nourishing mask to restore softness.

Style as usual; you should see a more even, neutral, and smoky finish instead of patchy orange brass.

Conclusion 

Using a concentrated ash additive gives you a lot of power in a small amount of product.

It is a great way of will dealing with orange hair if your natural base is brunette and you want to tone over the orange.

However, it is a strong product, so start with less additive if you are unsure; One inch of additive in the tube to one bottle of Color Gel plus the developer is about right.

You can always use more or less ash grey additive the next time to adjust.

Remember that using ash grey additive will make your hair darker.

So try and mix with a lighter base color.

Used thoughtfully, Ash Grey Additive becomes a precise, professional‑level tool

It lets you transform harsh, brassy orange into a consistent and attractive color while keeping the hair’s integrity and shine.

About the author

Sally has been a hair colorist and trainer for many years in both the US & Europe. She currently does hair color training for Ugly Duckling. She also helps develop new & awesome products for the brand.



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